Paragliding in the Black Forest

There are two ways to see the northern Black Forest from above. From a lookout tower, or hanging beneath a paraglider with nothing but air between you and the treetops. Choose the second and you discover the landscape you know from walks and bike rides all over again. Valleys turn into lines, forests into carpets, and the Rhine plain suddenly appears as a silver ribbon on the horizon.

You need neither a pilot's licence nor any previous experience. The region's most important flying site is a good three quarters of an hour from Baiersbronn, and the drive there along the Schwarzwaldhochstraße, the Black Forest High Road, is an experience in itself.

The centre of paragliding in the northern Black Forest is the Merkur, Baden-Baden's local mountain. Few launch sites are easier to reach. The historic Merkurbergbahn funicular, opened in 1913, climbs a good 400 vertical metres to the top station, and the launch site is right next to it.

At the top, there are no fewer than two launch directions. The west launch looks out across Baden-Baden and the Rhine valley, while the technically more demanding north-east launch faces Gernsbach. The region's paragliding club is based here, and on good days its pilots circle for hours in the thermals above the ridge. Seen from the valley, they look like a flock of brightly coloured birds.

For anyone without a licence of their own, a tandem flight is the way into the air. An experienced pilot takes care of the wing, the take-off and the landing. You sit comfortably in the harness in front and only have to run a few steps at take-off. Several operators fly from the Merkur. Depending on the length of the flight, it costs around €99 to €149, plus the funicular and, if you wish, photos or videos of your flight.

Two things are worth knowing. Sturdy footwear is a must, and the weather always has the final say. Bookings are therefore confirmed at short notice. A flexible day in your holiday plans is the best ally for a first flight.

As a rule, flying at the Merkur goes on all year round, as long as wind and visibility allow. The most stable conditions often come in early summer and autumn. If you get a taste for it, there are further launch sites in the northern Black Forest to discover, for instance at the Teufelsmühle above the Murg valley. The demands there are higher, though, and the site is reserved for club pilots.

For a first flight, the Merkur remains the place to go. Easy to reach, professional operators and a backdrop that stretches from the Rhine valley to the Vosges.

The drive back to Obertal follows the Schwarzwaldhochstraße. Time to let it all sink in. Outside, the very ridges you were floating above a short while ago slide past the window.

And if you would like to come back down to earth after all that adrenaline, there is no need to fly over Wolke 7 at Engel Obertal. The hotel's spa of that name, cloud nine in German, is at ground level, and gazing up at the sky from the natural swimming lake is the most relaxed flight debrief imaginable.